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N A V O H I

Silk dyed with the roots of the earth.

A Lagos artist. A Şeki master. One scarf.

Not fashion. A piece made to be passed down.

Şeki silk · Global artists · Natural dyes

Each piece begins with an artist, ends with a master.

The Adire Collection

Nigeria

The Adire Collection

by Adaeze Okonkwo

The Anatolia Collection

Turkey

The Anatolia Collection

by Hafize Kaya

The Shibori Collection

Japan

The Shibori Collection

by Yuki Tanaka

The Şeki Silk Collection

Azerbaijan

The Şeki Silk Collection

by Narmin Hasanova

The Oaxaca Collection

Mexico

The Oaxaca Collection

by Frida Luna

The Saimaa Collection

Finland

The Saimaa Collection

by Aino Mäkinen

Silk

Şeki, Azerbaijan

Every Navohi piece begins with raw silk from Şeki, a town in the foothills of the Greater Caucasus.

UNESCO Heritage · 2014100% Natural DyesHand-processed Silk
Narmin Hasanova

The master behind every collection

Narmin Hasanova

4. generation kelaghayi master · Şeki, Azerbaijan · UNESCO Intangible Heritage

A fourth-generation kelaghayi artisan from Şeki, Narmin works at the crossroads of UNESCO-recognized tradition and global contemporary art. Every collection that leaves her workshop carries 500 years of Azerbaijani silk heritage.

Meet Narmin →

What a kelaghayi is

A kelaghayi is a square of natural silk, printed by hand with hot wax and dyed with plants. UNESCO added the craft — "the traditional art and symbolism of kelaghayi, making and wearing women’s silk headscarves" — to its Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in November 2014. It is still made in Şəki and in Basqal, where some households print with blocks over three hundred years old.

Nothing about it is quick. The silk is woven, the block is cut from pear or walnut, the pattern is pressed on in wax so the dye cannot reach what it covers, and only then does the cloth go into the vat. A second colour means the whole sequence again. Because every stage is done by hand, no two pieces come out the same.

What Navohi does with it

The patterns are not Azerbaijani. They are drawn by artists from twelve countries, out of whatever ornament they already know how to read, and then cut and dyed by a master in Şəki. Each piece is published under the name of the artist who drew it — which is the one thing here the tradition does not do, since a kelaghayi is anonymous work by custom.

Every colour and motif on these scarves has a reading behind it. Blue, red and ochre gold are the healing colours. Al is what a bride is given. The seven-colour work is the ceiling of the craft. The pieces are named in Azerbaijani for that reason, and the collections are cut the same way the tradition cuts them: by motif, and by colour.